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Krakon found at Yang Sing in casserole

It’s been a few years since Gordo was blessed by the Yang Sing burning down. Taking records of Gordo’s tab which was running at around £1000 a month at the time. Gerry takes revenge with the Grouper Fish and Belly Pork Casserole, aka The Krakon…

Written by . Published on July 20th 2006.

Krakon found at Yang Sing in casserole

It’s been a few years since Gordo was blessed by the Yang Sing burning down. Blessed because the fire destroyed the books, which included the records of Gordo’s tab which was running at around £1000 a month at the time. Gerry, one of the owners, had to wipe the slate clean, but then took it away. Gordo hasn’t been allowed to sign for his supper since.

However, we did get a makeover which was pretty good at the time. All reds, golds and dragons, mind you. This lasted a good ten years but Gerry decided that he needed to bring the place up to date, doing a complete overhaul in contemporary 1930’s Shanghai style. Get your heads around that one!

There have been a number of occasions where Gordo has touched on the décor having been to a function, but he thought it time to give his verdict; it’s good. A Chinese restaurant has finally come away from those headache inducing radioactive ketchup interiors. Mellow, is what it is now. Gordo isn’t very good at describing interiors, probably because he likes girls, but he can say he likes it.

The makeover has been executed in the usual efficient manner of the Yeung brothers, using the talented Roberta Fulford as the interior designer. It’s very different, less garish, more subtle; some great new tables have been created for large families in alcoves in the walls. The familiar layout remains and believe me, this is still by far the busiest restaurant in town. In ship sizes, it’s a Queen Mary.

Here are some quotes from the PR blurb, which are pretty spot on.

“…contemporary classic oriental with a touch of 1930’s Shanghai”.

“There’s an emphasis on a clean palette, symmetry and the fusion of old and new.”

Can’t fault that. Gordo did a test dinner with some pals recently, meaning to do a full culinary review. It’s as good as ever. However, unless you are the bravest person on the planet, or an ethnic Chinese, give the grouper fish and belly pork casserole a wide berth. Weirdly, Vanessa Lees, Body Confidential’s Editor who was with Gordo for the test dinner thought it was great. And this is a slip of a girlie, who, like The Devil apparently, wears Prada. Gordo though was waiting for Captain Jack Sparrow to come hurtling out of the casserole pot closely pursued by Davy Jones himself. It frightened him.

The rest of the meal, for Gordo’s palette, was spot on. If you aren’t from Manchester and ask opinions of our Chinese restaurants you will get a passionate response from every Mancunian, from bankers to postmen. We have been brought up to have an opinion because we all love our Chinese community and the cuisine they brought us. Harry Yeung, the other owner of the Yang Sing, was the guy who brought you spring rolls that the police didn’t fall back on when they had lost their rubber truncheons, dim sum that tasted great, having been freshly made that morning and sizzling fillet steak with saucing that made your tongue tingle but ruined your silk kipper tie.

Established since 1977 (and before under other guises) this restaurant has long been argued to be the best in Europe. It is always full, even buzzing through the afternoons, which Gordo believes to be the best time to have the experience. You can order dim sum and a pot of tea, or ask the hugely experienced staff to make up a banquet for you and the rest of your orchestra suddenly finding yourselves between concerts.

Gordo has eaten there three times in the past three months, once as mentioned earlier (good), once with a pal (astonishing) and once on his own with a pot of tea and a newspaper (magical).

Finally, it’s worth mentioning the wine list. Gerry Yeung, Harry’s brother, likes his wines and it shows on the wine list. Probably in the top three of any restaurant in town. White burgundies range from four different Chablis, from Petit through to a Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’, (£49.90), all the way up to a bottle of the famed Le Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet, 1997, a 5*star vintage and strangely good value at £249.00 a bottle. It is very rare. Reds are similarly well represented; you can smell a collaboration between Gerry and Roger Barlow at Gerrard Seal wine merchants with some great red burgundy as well. The 1997 Musigny looked a bit dear at £245.00, but turns out to be the very rare grand cru, of which they measure production in barrels and count them on one hand.

Champagne: If you are a footballer or WAG, you can drink Louis Roederer Cristal at £295.00. If you know your champagnes and are simply a person of good taste you can drink Krug at £140.00.

Back down to earth there is a great selection from £15 through to £35, along with Jerry’s fabulously well chosen house wines at £14.50 (Montelindo Chardonnay, Torrontes Argentina, as well as Montelindo Temperanillo-Malbec Argentina).

Gordo has had bills here ranging from £16 (himself) to £845 (six mad friends going insane on the wine). It’s a do-it-yourself kind of thing. King Prawn main courses are around £13 to give you the flavour. Gordo has the full menu on his computer. If you want one email him, details below.


A Gordo Go

Email me

Yang Sing
0161 236 2200
34, Princess Street
M1 4JY

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