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Gulshan goes into curry top 100

Pat Chapman's bible swears by Aigburth restaurant

Published on December 5th 2012.

Gulshan goes into curry top 100

THE Cobra Good Curry Guide has put Aigburth's Gulshan into its UK top 100 curry houses.

Also named in the new 2013 guide are London Road's Maharaja, Childwall's Spiceways, the Akshaya in Kensington and Waterloo's Saffron, but it's the Gulshan which has been singled out for special attention.

The editor of the guide, Pat Chapman, has been fond of the Aigburth Road business for years, having witnessed Gulshan’s expansion from its early days in the mid-1980s.

VindalooVindalooHe said: “I’m delighted to include Gulshan in the Guide. It takes an enormous amount of dedication and love to maintain the standards that Gulshan has consistently achieved since I first came across this family-run business, decades ago."

The Rahman family were responsible for Liverpool's first curry house - The Kohinoor, on Commutation Row - and their "tindaloo" whose chillies were so hot they had to be ordered in a day in advance, is still muttered about among those still alive to mutter.

“The food, the ambience and the welcome all add up to a very enticing proposition for the consumer," said Mr Chapman who paid a flying visit on Monday night.


Jad Rahman, pictured top with his mum, said: “Our family are extremely proud of this award and would like to thank Mr. Chapman for considering us in the first place. For a suburban restaurant, this is a great honour."

Jad's granddad, who opened up in Liverpool in 1961, might not believe his eyes. These days the Gulshan goes in for a tapas menu and a mezzanine bar dedicated to cocktails. But we were after a good old hot and spicy curry, when we showed up earlier this week, to see if the bible was talking gospel.

The kid, with some sort of Boy-v-Food head on, immediately ordered a vindaloo (£9.30) which is only done to special request.

"Bring it on," he said, much to the concern of the (highly responsible) waiter who acquiesced but insisted the boy accompany it with a bowl of cooling raita.  

Good, ripe tomatoes were the base for a lamb rogan josh (£9.30) and it was easy to see why a meeker green chicken balti, which is VERY green is the most popular dish on the menu.  It's called Grassendale, innit?

Green BaltiGreen Balti: Pureed coriander, tamarind, mint, green chillies and balti spices

This all came after some well constructed onion bhajis, tikka-marinated lamb chops (their suggestion), a fluffy, light garlic naan and crackling, dry poppadoms.

Fish is overlooked by Indian restaurant punters and the tilapa starter (£6.70), sitting on a bed of cooked down, spiced onions, and more of those tomatoes, was a stand out.

Several pints of water later the 11-year-old gave up on the vindaloo, which was good news for all of us as we weren't much looking forward to explaining ourselves to social services.

In the cold light of the next day, it took to the Confidential microwave like a lucid dream.   

You're not going to get many stag parties trekking up to the Gulshan, but happen, if you're in the suburbs, you may wish to throw the car keys on the table and caution to the winds.

Scored review from 2010 here

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10 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

Edward BarrettDecember 5th 2012.

The Parade Tandoori is difficult to beat, in my opinion.

AnonymousDecember 5th 2012.

So the Gulshan is back on form then? No so long ago those who claimed to know their curries made a point of writing off the Gulshan as a restaurant living on its reputation. Looks like they've listened.
I always thought that the Asha in Bold Street was Liverpool first curry house, but I'm always open to correction.

BrianDecember 5th 2012.

EastZEast is hard to beat

Happy curry loverDecember 5th 2012.

For best peshwari naan and authentic curry experience eat at Sultan's Palace. Number one in north of west and always I am a genuine satisfied customer with air conditioning. You will find no better than Sultan's Palace!

1 Response: Reply To This...
AnonymousDecember 5th 2012.

Are you their PR guy perchance?

Always I am suspicious very of writing in this kind from man with own air conditioning

Alex MayDecember 5th 2012.

The last person I know to eat at The Gulshan (several months ago) thought it no better than I did when eating there several years ago. Always thought the owners must be friends with the right people. The Light of Bengal remains far and away the best in the area.

Good to see Spiceways get a mention. Been pleased on all 5 or 6 visits.

SaladDazeDecember 5th 2012.

And, after a gap of about 40 years, I went back to U'n'I on Renshaw Street recently. It was fab.

1 Response: Reply To This...
EditorialDecember 6th 2012.

Completely agree Saz. Here is our review by Fat Git, who thought the same

J MozJanuary 22nd 2013.

Most authentic Indian restaurant around has to be Akshaya in Kensington. Southern Indian and Sri Lankan style. No greasy bhajis or tikka masalas here. Dosas, idlis and vadais rule.

Robert EatonNovember 20th 2014.

Although not strictly an Indian restaurant,but then again how many are Indian?,the first decent curry that I remember was from Joe's Cafe on Duke Street,a place that many ,now retired, taxi drivers will remember

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